"Asylum: A New Perspective," 9th Annual Harrell-Bond Lecture (RSC, Nov. 2008) [text]
Climate change, natural disasters and human displacement: a UNHCR perspective (UNHCR, Oct. 2008) [text]
- See also related web pages.
"The EU's failed asylum rules," International Herald Tribune, 20 Nov. 2008 [text]
From Fast Death to Slow Death: Palestinian Refugees from Iraq Trapped on the Syria-Iraq...
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CAR
There's nothing better than a hamam on a cold Istanbul day after a long flight. Bad Zimbabwe juju can only be purged using the most aggressive of techniques. Things wrong with the world seem righter after several layers of skin are removed by a woman with enormous breasts wielding a kese made of steel wool. Our recent visit to our local hamam provided the best - and most thorough -- scrub we've ever had.Carpetblogger's Preferred Hamam (TM) is not for the squeamish. A local joint, it's a little rough around the edges and has lots of smells, not all of them good. As we entered a Hamam Böceği (Hamam Bug)* scampered across the toilet area. Carpetblog's Kathmandu Correspondent had a cyst removed from her back with a melonballer after her last visit, but there's no more evidence linking it...
Despite its compensation law, the Turkish government is failing to provide fair compensation for hundreds of thousands of mainly Kurdish villagers displaced by the military’s brutal counterinsurgency campaigns in the southeast, Human Rights Watch said in a briefing paper released today.
read...

(Yah, I know. It's been a while. I'm lame)With mandatory wine consumption quotas and creative menus, Sunday dinners chez Carpetblogger- Producer have always been a coveted invitation. Not surprisingly, given the volatility of some of the guests, dinners get out of hand from time to time. What started out as a low key event with a small, well-behaved guest list on Sunday night turned into a near-riot that involved a rusty meat cleaver, at least 15 neighbors and a midnight trip to the police station.We often make fun of our gentrifying, too-cute-by-half Cihangir
neighborhood. With its twee cafes, gourmet food stores and antique
shops, it's easy to forget that there are plenty of residents of "Yabanc?? K??y"(foreigner village, as we call it) who don't spend their days sitting in Kahvedan....
Historic Opportunity to Tackle Violence by Security Forces
The prosecution of an alleged ultranationalist conspiracy aimed at the overthrow of Turkey’s democratic government should investigate whether current members of the military, intelligence services and state bureaucracy were involved, Human Rights Watch said today. The trial of 86 people accused of being members of the so-called Ergenekon gang, some of them senior retired military officers, begins on October 20, 2008....
Sunday's New York Times travel section has a story about Istanbul's tourist hamams and high-end spas. The piece, which was written by Carpetfriend and neighbor Parisian Suzanne, singles out the obvious ones -- ??emberlita?? and Cagalo??lu in Sultanahmet about which we've written before here and here -- and expensive spas that, in the unlikely event we'd ever darken their door, probably wouldn't let us in anyway. Reading this story, you'd think there's nowhere affordable in Istanbul to get a scrub.We happen to have it on good authority that earlier versions of the story included cheaper hamam alternatives. We know this because we provided the data, which included the caveat that, of the three people we know who have visited the ghetto hamman at the end of our street we often recommend,...

It's Ramazan again! It seems like just yesterday the Ramazan Davulcusu passed through the neighborhood beating their drums and chanting their 4 am prayers, disturbing the rest of believers and infidels alike (described and photographed here, here, here and here). Last year, we thought it was an opportunity to experience a
charming dying cultural tradition. This year, it's 30 days of being woken up by drums beneath our open bedroom windows every.single.morning at 3 am, and more than a mild irritant.Astute readers know that Ramazan is the month-long fast celebrated by Muslims around the world. There are two important things to know about Ramazan: it moves about one month earlier every year and people fast from sunrise to sunset. That means that Ramazan in December is much more popular...

It's little known fact but the Russians invaded Turkey long before they set their sights on Georgia. Antayla, which sits on the Mediterranean Coast and used to be not awful, receives planeloads of vomit-splattered yobs from Rostov every day. Any devushka worth her boob job knows that Antalya is waaaay better than Batumi, with the added benefit of plenty of oversexed Turkish men (hey girls! It's not whoring if you give it away!). The Turks have been falling over themselves to serve this new demographic, which demands high prices and the same level of quality and service they've come to expect back home in Smolensk. They've even built a resort replica of the Kremlin and St. Basil's so Russians feel at home. I've heard that a Russian developer is building a seven star hotel which, to you...
Ruling Party Narrowly Escapes Court Ban
The case seeking to ban Turkey’s ruling party underscores the urgent need for the government to reform the constitution and improve respect for human rights, Human Rights Watch said today....
It was a good sign when I went to read the news online this morning and had to scroll all the way down the page before finding any articles about Turkey. Once I found the New York Times article that I was looking for, it reported that Turkey’s Constitutional Court did not get the seven votes required to ban the ruling Justice and Development Party (AKP). Had one more judge voted for the ban, you can bet that this would be top headline material. The Court’s decision on Wednesday brought a sigh of relief to a lot of people, especially the 46.6% of Turkish citizens who elected the AKP and European Union officials who are in membership negotiations with Turkey.
A ban on the AKP would have discredited what has proved to be the best example of democracy in an Islamic country. All of the...

Since there seem to be a lot of bombs in Istanbul lately, and given that rival groups have been threatening coups that sound much more treacherous than they actually are, we thought it might help readers interpret the news -- and assess the level of threat to their favorite Istanblogger -- if we guide you through our habitat. That way, when there's a bomb, consulate attack or other provocation, you can reassure yourself or panic accordingly. Very service-y of us.The most important thing to keep in mind is that Istanbul has 15 million people (give or take) and covers 700 square miles. That's a lot more people than LA County or New York City. You can get an idea of how sprawling -- yet also dense -- it is when approaching Ataturk from the air. Miles and miles of red tiled roofs carpet the...

We've often pondered whether groups that fund terrorists deal with the same challenges that face organizations that give grants for things like democracy promotion or humanitarian projects. How do you decide whom to fund? Does Al-Qaeda issue RFPs on the USAID model? How is capacity measured? How is
sustainability defined? Do they demand documentary receipts for explosive purchases? Are there strict "Buy Pakistan" procurement regulations or "Fly Saudia" requirements? Surely, the average terror grant giving organization must get a lot of fucking stupid ideas coming in the door. How do they deal with proposals offered by those who are clearly incompetent? This "stupid terrorist" meme is a rich vein. So rich, in fact, that The International Man of Mystery and his sidekick Young...

It's completely understandable if you confuse Carpetblog with ESPN, what with all this coverage of manly sports lately. Last week it was football. This week, Olive Oil wrestling! For 647 years, the K??rkp??nar Oil Wrestling Festival and tournament (Ya??l?? G??re??) has been held in a field next to a river in K??rkp??nar, just outside of Edirne. Apparently, it is the oldest continuously running, sanctioned sporting competition in the world. It has a long and interesting history. Read about it elsewhere. Edirne is a hot provincial town near the Bulgarian border that once served as an Ottoman capital. It's about a two hour drive from Istanbul (but more like three and a half at 11 pm on a Sunday night). Astute readers will remember that the Chiplomat and Carpetblogger visited Edirne already,...

As many of you know, Carpetblog is an American-run operation. A female American-run operation. That means that our interest in almost all kinds of sport is surpassed only by our interest in, say, derivatives. Our interest in football is even more intense.We've heard the arguments in favor of football and none are very compelling. Some
have compared football to religion, which, while accurate, does nothing to enhance our appreciation for it. Lots of things are wildly popular while at the same time being screamingly boring.Under intense pressure, and having not one better option on a Wednesday night, we succumbed and went to a bar, and not just to do what we normally do at bars. We went with the specific intent of watching Turkey play Germany in the 2008 Euro cup. If you want to...
Religion and Expression Rights Denied, Broader Reform Agenda Endangered
The decision by Turkey’s Constitutional Court to cancel constitutional amendments that would have opened the way for women to wear a headscarf in universities is a blow to freedom of religion and other fundamental rights, Human Rights Watch said today. The court ruled on June 5 that the Turkish parliament had violated the constitutionally enshrined principle of secularism when it passed amendments to lift the headscarf ban on university campuses. The amendments were adopted by an overwhelming majority of parliament....
Human Rights Group Ordered Closed on Procedural Grounds
A Turkish court’s decision to disband a human rights organization defending lesbian, gay, bisexual, and transgender (LGBT) people shows that official repression poses a serious threat to democratic rights and freedom of association, Human Rights Watch said today....
EU Should Insist on Reforms to Counter Persisting Inequality and Abuses
Turkey should urgently change law and policy to protect lesbian, gay, bisexual, and transgender (LGBT) people from extensive harassment and brutality on the streets, in homes, and in state-run institutions, Human Rights Watch said in a new report released today. Human Rights Watch also called on the European Union to make Turkey’s membership aspirations contingent on ending endemic abuses and guaranteeing equal rights and protection for LGBT people....
Assessment on Returns to Iraq Amongst the Iraqi Refugee Population in Syria (UNHCR Syria, April 2008) [text]
Because I am a Girl: The State of the World's Girls 2008. Special Focus: In the Shadow of War (Plan International, May 2008) [text]
Beyond the School Gates: Supporting Refugees and Asylum Seekers in Secondary School (Refugee Council, May 2008) [text]
Hidden Cork: Perspectives of...
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With fake blood.
Does anyone know why the Istanbul riot police fill their water cannons with red water? If they were doing it to mark their targets, they pretty much failed since 85% of the people who were not police at today's Cihangir May Day Riots were, like me and Awesome Mossman, underemployed gawkers. Plus, there was too much of it to be believable. There's usually only that much blood in the streets during Bayram.
But excess was really the theme of the day. I really don't feel like explaining May Day in Istanbul, but 31 years ago, 37 people were killed by police during May Day protests near Taksim. The incident was never resolved, no one was punished and ever since then, the government tightly controls all May Day commemorations and forbids large gatherings on the square. So,...

Carpetblogger and Red State Sibling spent last weekend in Bursa, one of Turkey's largest cities, situated south of Istanbul and 30 kms inland from the Sea of Marmara. The historic (as opposed to the sprawling concrete) part of the city climbs up the side of Mount Uludağ and is home to lots of hot spring hammams. As (one of many) terminals of the Silk Road and the center of Ottoman silk production, it has wonderful hans and bazaars, even though the silk production industry has long since moved on to other places.
Now, it's a center of cotton production and is famous for its towels. Had I known how awesome and absorbent Bursa's cotton towels are, I would have bought a million kilos (the guy I bought from sold them for 10 YTL a kilo).
Even though Bursa's full of cotton and silk, this is...
Article 301 Should Be Abolished
The government’s proposed revision to the infamous Article 301 of the Turkish Penal Code, which has been used to investigate and prosecute hundreds of people for peacefully expressing themselves, will not remove the article’s restrictions on free speech, Human Rights Watch said today. The government’s draft revision of the article is likely to be considered by the Turkish parliament in the coming days....
A police raid on a Turkish human rights organization is the latest incident in an escalating pattern of harassment of gay rights groups, Human Rights Watch said today. In a letter to Turkish Minister of Interior Besir Atalay, Human Rights Watch called on the government to cease official harassment of groups working on sexual orientation and gender identity issues, and to ensure training of all criminal-justice officials in human rights principles....
Anuario 2008 de procesos de paz (Escola de cultura de paz, April 2008) [Spanish text]
Country at a Crossroads: Challenges Facing Young People in Sierra Leone (Women's Commission, April 2008) [text]
Denied Status, Denied Education: Children of North Korean Women in China (Human Rights Watch, April 2008) [text via Refworld]
A Gamble with the Right to Asylum in Europe: Greek Asylum Policy and...
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We are often skeptical of business behaving ethically in developed markets. Some numbers suggest that global trust in business is rather low - and the way to improve it is greater transparency and more governance. This said, we are often even more skeptical of ethical business practices in developing economies. But it is possible, as this article on Turkey shows, for business to behave more ethically, and changes in business practices can be driven by legal and regulatory reforms.
I am not necessarily talking about mandating ethical practices on business. What I am talking about is creating incentives for business to behave more ethically. In Turkey, it is the legal and regulatory reform of the investment and business climate, driven partly by the government’s...

From Villa Luna:
HELP SAVE OUR HEAVY METAL FRIENDS FROM AN UNCERTAIN FATE IN BAGHDAD
In
November 2007, the Iraqi metal band
Acrassicauda was able to get to Turkey through the help of friends who
donated money for them to leave Syria. Their visas in Syria were
expiring and the government of Syria was threatening to force all
Iraqis to return to Iraq.
Now they are in Turkey and their money and options are running out.
Life in Turkey is very expensive and very difficult for people waiting
to find out if they can officially be resettled by the UNHCR in another
country (Turkey does not accept refugees from anywhere other than the
West). As it stands now, they may have to return to Baghdad, simply...

Many people have asked lately, "Carpetblogger! Where are all the textiles?" It is true, I have not bought one since October, in Afghanistan. There are many explanations for this, mostly related to the slide of the American Peso and sharp spending cuts dictated by the Central Bank.
Walking home this afternoon from a leisurely "Consultant's Lunch," I spotted a pile of
textiles stacked on abandoned fruit stand, tended to by an old man. I pass this fruit stand nearly every day and I can say with absolute certainty it is a place where textiles usually are not. They called to me. I had no choice but to investigate further. I started pawing through the piles.
He had a few woolly blankets and wall hangings folded up in old bags, which, when opened, released...
Reader Bulent, who always answers questions we didn't know we had, fills in some of the blanks on the Kurban charity option:Here's another fun bit for you. You probably have noticed by now the
deep mistrust Turks hold for organized charities asking for donations.
Turkish Red Crescent has a solution for that this year. You pay them
for your 'kurban,' they slaughter it in front of a notary public, film
it, make a VCD of the slaughter, and send you the 'evidence' along with
1/2 kg of the meat ('kavurma', not the spoilable fresh version). The
rest goes to the poor. They figure this scheme will give them an edge
over the other charities who don't provide such high-tech evidence of
the good deed actually getting done. Here's the link: Haber 7.
On the other hand, when I mentioned this to a...

Iyi Bayramlar! Today, tomorrow, Saturday and Sunday are Kurban Bayram (Eid al Adha), the Muslim celebration of Abraham's willingness to sacrifice his own son for God/Allah/Yahweh. It also marks the end of the Hajj in Mecca.
Today, Muslims have an animal slaughtered, then distribute some of the meat to the poor and use the rest for a big feast. Non-observers admire carcasses hanging in places where carcasses usually aren't and step over guts in the street.
There are a couple of ways believers can fulfill their obligation at a variety of price points. Old school observers, like my neighbors, commandeer a depo, or storage space, bring in a cow, slaughter it according to Islamic principles (halal) themselves and make the womenfolk strip the carcass of every last useful morsel. When...
from NTV MSNBCReforms to the social security and health systems are important to counter child poverty, Pieters said.ANKARA - More than a quarter of all Turkish children under the age of 15 live in poverty, according to a senior official of the United Nations Children’s Fund (UNICEF).Lila Pieters, the deputy representative of UNICEF in Turkey, said that 27.7 percent of Turkish children are living in poverty, with the country making little investment in children.Speaking in an interview with the Anatolian News Agency, Pieters said that Turkey had one of the highest levels of children in its population, with 28.4 percent of the population under the age of 14.While there had been progress in improving the health system, much still needed to be done to improve education, she said.“There...
In today's NYT travel section, Matt Gross writes about the restaurant scene, and mentions my current favorite Istanbul restaurant, Çiya (pronounced like the pet). The cold mezzes are absolutely to die for and the special Çiya kebab -- ground meat with melted cheese in a fresh pide -- is one thousand different kinds of awesome. I tried a green mezze there that was so unlike anything I had ever tasted before, I can't even describe its taste. The menu has been different every time I've been. Seriously, there's no excuse not to make the easy ferry trip to Kadiköy to try this place out if you're in Istanbul.
Also, I need to talk about brunch for a moment. It is becoming my favorite day of the week. There are two kinds of brunch. The first is the kind with bacon and pancakes and...
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